North to South in Europe

Stewart, Katherine, Cindy, Don, Kendy, Janice, Bill, Rick

It was fun sailing into Piazza San Marco on a boat after ditching our bikes in Punto Sabbione, drinking Prosecco supplied by Rudolph and eating fine soft cheese, bread, olives, peaches, prosciutto and tomatoes. Group photos all round, hugs and felicitations. A fine way to end a north to south bike ride on a hot Italian morning.

I was sorry to depart Slovenia with its hills, picturesque villages, cheap beers, friendly people, creamy cold ice cream and polite drivers. Well, most of them anyway. Should anyone wish to convince their city or town to adopt bicycle friendly conditions, a trip to Ljubljana would be recommended where at first hand, city officials can see how it is possible for the bike to coexist peacefully and seamlessly with cars and pedestrians. For a city of 250,000 they really have it together.

Crossing the border also meant we were reunited with the sea, so a dip in the Adriatic was called for. We left it a bit late to walk down to the beach so it had to be a paddle instead, but it was coolly refreshing. Miss Piggot, god bless her, immersed her entire body having had the good sense to don her bathers before the descent. An ice cream and a friendly bus driver who transported us back up the hill at no cost, completed a satisfying day.

Even though most of Italy is beautiful, TDA managed to select a route for our last two days that was so boring we all would have fallen asleep at the handlebars if it hadn't been for the ferocious traffic. Corn fields, soy beans, flat straight roads and green algae ridden canals. Didn't seem to accord with my recollections of Umbrian hills and gelato fragola.

Venezia proved hot, humid and crowded. I liked it very much but could understand that others found it suffocating and somewhat claustrophobic. We walked, hopped onto vaporettos and visited Murano to see lumps of molten silica transformed into horses and the like, and enjoy a 'Menu Turistica' that was so good, sitting by a breezy canal, that it should have been bottled. Allora.

Our hotel, the Villa Alberti, also did a grand farewell meal, albeit the unofficial one. The official dinner was held in a stuffy restaurant where the 50gm of fried chicken which most mistook for ...well, fish perhaps...tasted...well, like nothing...as did the tortellini. The wine was little more than dyed cat's piss but that did not stop me for a moment. Still, what more could we expect from good old TDA.

The awards however were funny, with much work having gone into them by George, Kris and Katherine. I was thrilled to receive the 'Miss Congeniality' award until someone mentioned that this award is always part of the Miss America Pageant and goes to the ugly one who raises the most money. Oh well...

I feel great after my six weeks on the bike. I have been to places I would never have otherwise travelled to and developed an interest that will linger. I have made friends whom I cherish and have plans for my next trip. I am relaxed, energised and ready for the next chapter.

And so, here is my last lot of riding data which in total amounted to 3,414kms on the bike.
Thursday 19 August to Sistiana: 106kms, 5hrs 55 mins, 17.8 average. Lots of hills, in fact we climbed four long passes through the mountains which is always better that climbing over them.
Friday 20 August to Caorle: 94km, 22.6 average, 4hrs 8 mins. Flat, straight, dull.
Saturday 21 August to Punto Sabbione: 42km, 22 average, 1hr 54mins

Breakfast in Slovakia, Morning Tea in Austria, Dinner in Hungary

Nini eyes off Katherine's Apfel Strudel

And so it went on the day we left Bratislava for our six day cycling tour of Slovakia, Austria, Hungary and Slovenia. Of course the best was Austria - half a kilo of apple strudel served with vanilla custard in the company of at least fifteen other riders. Oh how those plates were licked. Hungary was a bit of a let down except for being reunited with the man on the 100 HUF note, of course. It is hard to believe that by the act of crossing an imaginary line - a border - life can be be experienced in a  wholly different way.

The Europeans really know how to turn on a storm as several nights in a row we have been buffeted and blown, thundered on and lit up by garish flashes chasing across the sky night after night. Waking sodden and grisly ready for another one of TDA's breakfasts of mixed cereal, dry bread and fruit has not quite hit the spot. Unfortunately I will not be able to participate in further camping as I binned my tent last night in favour of a mattress in the loft as the much mended front pole finally gave up the ghost. I was able to distribute all my high quality tent pegs though, which pleased me enormously.

A highlight was riding with Michael and Brian on the wet day when we ascended to Jerusalem, arriving in camp at 11am after a thrillingly fast ride. Kendy, Katherine and I were able to hold the pace having been fortified by an aromatherapy mud pack applied immediately prior to the storm that left our tents swimming in a sudden lake. We figured that beauty always beats speed...the little girl who witnessed our preparations is doubtless scarred for life as she reported to her mummy that there were ghosts in the bathroom.

Slovenia is chocolate box perfect - mountain peaks, meadows mowed to Wimbledon standards, quintessentially cute villages dotted on hillsides and a plethora of colour and window box treatments. It seems by far the most prosperous country we have visited, with the exception of Austria of course. Although in the villages there are still the old and infirm present, patiently raking hay and tending to chooks, and a lot of men sitting in bars drinking beer and smoking cigarettes as we ride by at 7am. Obviously the tobacco companies are still doing good business in this part of the world, as are the hops producers as we have ridden past acres and acres of hops climbing to the sky.

I am not sure where my head was yesterday as I pulled into camp and stood in awe of the ring of mountains circling us. A sensible person may have worked out that climbing would be required to get out - not me - so this morning's 23km climb came as somewhat of a surprise. The gradient proved largely benevolent so a warm beignet straight from wherever they come from enjoyed at the top with a magnificent view over the peaks and valleys, made it all better instantly.

I have already mosied around Ljubljana, having arrived at 10am and not able to access our rooms until 2pm. It seems like a very pretty city with lots of action. The castle imposes on the skyline and affords a generous view of the 250,000 inhabitants, their buildings, river and roads.

Another set of hill-filled metrics if you are still tuned in.

Thursday 12 August to Balf Sopron: 96km, 18.2 average, TITS 5hrs 16mins

Friday 13 August to Szombothely: 77km, 17.8 average, TITS 4hrs 21mins - hills of course as the max I attained was 56.4kmh!

Saturday 14 August to Moravce Toplice: 95km, 19.6 average, TITS 4hrs 48mins

Sunday 15 August to Ptuj:  73kms, 21.2 average, TITS 3hrs 25mins - rained but we rode with the fast Aussies and got there almost before we left.

Monday 16 August to Prebold: 94km, 18.7 average, TITS 5hrs.

Tuesday 17 August to Lublijana: 66km, 20.2 average, 3hrs 15mins

News flash! Just to hand...

Hot competition

Australia won bronze in the Hand Stand in Small Slovenian Pool Competition, narrowly pipped at the post by the USA - gold - and  Canada - silver. The Australian team was a little disabled on account of Don and myself who floated to the surface like so much flotsam (we're the ones to the left of the picture), although Brian's Campanolga-branded legs stood proudly to attention and were awarded the best vertical legs of any individual competitor.

How I got to ride in the Tour de Pologna

The water bottle bonanza

The day we rode out of Krakow was full of surprises. The first surprise was hills - long upwardly sloping bastards of hills that got bigger and steeper as the morning progressed. As you may know, hills are not my natural forte, nature intending me for more leisurely pursuits such as sumo wrestling or darts, perhaps.

The second surprise was coming across Gloria and Bob half way up a slope, Gloria complaining of chest and arm pains. Stewart and I waited with them until TDA was alerted and able to take appropriate action for Gloria to attend a medical facility. (Gloria spent several days in hospital undergoing tests and has now re-joined us in Bratislava.)

The third surprise was lunch where we were nearly blown away as a tremendous storm blew in bringing with it copious amounts of rain. Stewart and I sheltered in a bus stop, along with countless Poles, and while there entertained ourselves attempting to read a sign that had been recently affixed to the glass interior. From this we deduced that the Tour de Pologna, no less, would be passing through in an hour or two. Laughing like drains we remounted and sallied forth, soon nodding and smiling at the ever increasing number of young - and old  - men dressed in black firemen's uniforms who lined the route. As we progressed, small crowds gathered and some even took our photos as they cheered and clapped us on. Finally the time came when two fast motorbikes whizzed past and waved us off the road. By this time George and Monique had caught up, having been lost earlier in the day, so we took up positions on the verge and waited.

The first eight riders zoomed through, then far back and below we could see a snaking procession of support vehicles, police and more motorbikes, followed by the peloton. Amid wild cheers I managed to keep my feet as more than a hundred fit young men rushed past, wheel to wheel, bristling at about 45kmh I suppose, a speed I only dream of.

But the fun was only just beginning. Monique spotted a water bottle being thrown, so then the hunt was on. We all managed to score water bottles discarded by various team members. Mine is a Caisse d'Epargne. Brian advised me not to wash it, just fill it with water, as the residual EPO would help me the next day on the hills.

Eleven hours later we rolled into yet another third world camping spot, elated by a day of climbing, distance, weather and souvenir water bidons. What more could a girl want?

The next day  - and the next and the next - we climbed into the Slovakian mountains having crossed the border late the day before - we were high in the low Tartras or low in the high Tartras, not sure which, but I do know we were HIGH. The views were spectacular even if climbing for 6 or so kms at a time was more than I bargained for. Climbs were followed in part by swooping descents, and altogether we gained 750 metres nett during the day.

Some days we followed rivers that were flowing with us, other days they flowed against us, meaning of course the inevitable climbing. Highlights included two caramel deer that sprang startled from the side of the road and afforded us a glimpse of superb animal muscle in motion.

Town names changed from four or five consonants in a row as per Polish custom to more manageable titles like Sucha Hora, apparently reminding Brian of one of his former girlfriends. We also passed through a number of Horny villages, so the theme seemed to be set. One night we spent in a gorgeous mining village - Banska Stiavanko - even more surprising was that TDA picked up the tab for a guest house. The town's monument erected by the good civic folks many years ago to celebrate being spared by the Plague was commanding in both its size and materials used. A similar monument in Bratislava is much more modest.

Our second talent show was held in perhaps the worst camping ground we have been in but the sheer talent on display raised everyone's spirits as we roared with laughter and rocked in pleasure as those with beautiful voices sang to us. Ralph 'Gorgeous' Monfort was a fine MC, the two Ronnies (George and Stewart) brought us world updates from Radio BULL and a three act drama captivated the audience with its plot twists and turns. An all round good evening that followed a quiet day of only 78km of climbing followed by rolling hills and farmlands.

Then into Bratislava. Route was fine but busy with trucks and cars, day was fine and sunny and the corn crops seemed endless. About 10km prior to the city I rode through what I thought was a puddle which turned out to be a huge break away in the road surface, so I have now scored my first fall with subsequent minor grazing and bruising. Nothing to rival Ron though, who decided to take on a car in a village and has more cuts and marks to add to those from his previous falls.

Bratislava has developed significantly since I was last here on the Orient Express trip. Lots of cafes and places under the shade to enjoy food and wine, but unfortunately the prices have progressed to match the increasing sophistication.

The trip to Auschwitz wasn't as harrowing as I thought it might be, there being on display tonnes of human hair, hundreds of thousands of shoes, suitcases, toothbrushes, hairbrushes and other belongings of those who were killed there. Birkenau, or Auschwitz II,  was also a huge facility with the train lines running a kilometre from the camp gates to the gas chambers and ovens. Just before the Russians arrived, the Germans bombed the chambers in an attempt to be rid of the evidence. Cruelty, organised and mechanically efficient, on a mammoth scale. It is a just reminder of the importance of thinking about the consequences of what one does, and having the courage to speak and question. It would appear that the work of millions of people, whether they thought through the consequences of their actions or not, must have contributed to the ethnic cleansing that occurred in Europe during the Second World War.

That evening a few of us went to the Jewish quarter in Krakow and enjoyed a delicious meal as well as a three piece klezmer band. It rivalled the chamber orchestra performance of the evening before which I attended in a tiny 11th century church that once stood 7 metres higher than it does now, on account of the layers of garbage and cobbles that have been added to the city over centuries.

The Amber Route continues but we have now lost the thousands of shops and street vendors selling amber products. This has not saddened me one bit. So tomorrow we saddle up for six days as we weave through Hungary and Austria into Slovenia. It is making the anticipation of today's 90 minute Thai massage that much sweeter.

Facts and Figures if you're into that sort of thing:
Friday August 6 to Oravice: 127kms, 17 average, 7hrs 25mins TITS, great day's riding with the Tour!
Saturday August 7 to Turany Truslava: 86kms, 18 average, 54 max, 4hrs 46mins TITS - lovely scenic day with crisp mountain air as we whizzed past ski slope after ski slope
Sunday August 8 to Banska Stiavanko: 112kms, 17.3 average, 6hrs 19mins TITS
Monday August 9 to Jelenec: 78kms, 17.3 average, 4hrs 29mins, 51 max, huge switchback descent
Tuesday August 10 to Bratislava: 119kms, 21.1 average, 5hrs 35mins

Cut and Polish

Warsaw has been 90% rebuilt after WWII by the Russians in the main, the old city being built in the style it was before. The result is very pleasing to the eye with a mix of lovely European architecture blending with the cobbled streets, expansive squares, lush gardens and modern tourism. We cycled out of Warsaw on the morning of Sunday 1st August, just as the celebrations were getting started for the 1944 commemoration of the uprising in the Jewish ghetto which effectively sent the Nazis packing. Only trouble was, the Russians stayed.

Riding out was also exciting because the Tour de Polgna was being set up so we got to ride along the route and encourage the workers to cheer. Fortunately some milling crowds of drunken youths who had enjoyed a BIG Saturday night came to the party and yelled and chanted as if there was no tomorrow. Riding under the finish line was exhilarating - I've always wanted to fist the air a la Cancelarra and his mates, and I got to do it.

Polish youth are globally recognisable: mobile phone clutched in hand, back-to-front baseball cap on head, earphones plugged into ears, legs clad in jeans - skinny and otherwise, visible tattoos and piercings, long straight blonded or streaked hair and stupid shoes for the girls, just like everywhere. Rural youth were hard to spot, country areas mainly the province of old people scratching the hay with rakes or feeding chooks or doing the milking. All the old folks ride bikes, laden with shopping, milk crates, walking sticks - anything they need. The young people who were around passing summer holidays in languorous boredom, seemed to bear the mark of western overweight as they slumped off from the sklepas (shops) carrying plastic bags crammed with Coca Cola, slurping on the ubiquitous Magnum ice cream.

Things are a deal more prosperous south of Warsaw. No muddy villages with down at heel houses and falling down barns, instead huge modern houses as neat as a pin, imposing stone fences behind which are parked modern vehicles. Every household has at least one dog, sometimes three or four, plus cats and kittens. Pigeon fancying also seems to be popular.

We have continued to enjoy out-of-the-way camping grounds with blissfully luxurious facilities. The hotels are well up in the one and a half star category but the dinners have been bloody good. Lots of salads, fresh flavours and sound portions of protein. Brekkie and lunch can be a bit boring, but we have enjoyed some good tuna and egg mayonnaise combinations for lunch. Apart from Stewart's bullet wound, we have also had a severely scalded thigh, an infected foot, a hernia, a suspected broken collarbone and two seriously twisted ankles. Quite enough for Doctor Nini.

Krakow is original in architecture, a bit Viennese perhaps, with double trams rattling along busy boulevards. Today I am partaking in a walking tour of the city and tomorrow it's a bus to Auschwitz - dunno how far I will venture but the bus ride sounds comfortable. It is lovely to have two full days in which to rest and read, plus half a day yesterday after we arrived, especially before the onslaught of five days in hilly terrain.

I would like to leave you with my personal best to date: 290 kms in 2 days. Here's the rest of the facts:
Sunday August 1 to Smardzewice : 145km, 21.1km, 6hrs 49mins average holiday until past 2am
Monday August 2 to Bobolice: 145 km, 20.1 km average7hrs 10 mins, a two Mars Bars and two Powerades sort of a day as the sun beat down and the hills lengthened and grew in stature with the last 14 kms too much and too long for me, but I made it
Tuesday August 3 to Krakow: 94km, 18 kmh average, 5hrs, a most beautiful limestone valley  with a burbling brook that we followed for 20 superb kilometres - a guided ride into the city, an all round good day despite the many slow long climbs of the morning